Baked in the pizza oven, not fried
Wings
Baked in the pizza oven rather than fried, then tossed — hot, mild, or garlic-parmesan.
There is no deep fryer in this building, and rather than install one for wings we bake them. A 550°F pizza oven on a rack renders the fat out and crisps the skin properly — not identically to frying, and we are not going to claim it is the same thing. It is drier and cleaner and slightly less crisp, and a good number of people prefer it.
They are baked in batches through the evening and tossed in sauce when you order them, for the same reason the garlic knots are: a sauced wing sitting under a lamp goes soft within minutes and the skin is the whole reason to eat one.
Three sauces, all made here, and the hot one is genuinely hot rather than theatrically hot.
What goes on it
The wings
Whole wings jointed here into drums and flats, dried and salted several hours ahead.
Hot
Cayenne pepper sauce mounted with butter. The same one that goes on the buffalo chicken pizza.
Mild
The same sauce cut with more butter and a little honey.
Garlic-parmesan
Garlic oil, grated hard cheese and parsley, tossed rather than sauced.
How it is made here
Dried and salted ahead
Several hours uncovered in the cold room. Dry skin crisps; wet skin steams.
Baked on a rack
So the fat drains away rather than pooling. Twenty-five minutes at 550°F.
Tossed to order
In a bowl, hot. Never sauced and held.
Celery and dressing
On the side, cold, always.
Wings — what it costs
- Six$11
- Dozen$20
Prices include every topping listed above. Extras are $3 for vegetables and $4 for meats. Prices change when our costs do; the menu here is the menu in the shop.
Before you order this
A shared flour kitchen, and what that rules out. Our kitchen handles wheat flour in open air all day, along with milk, eggs, soy, tree nuts and fish. Flour becomes airborne every time a dough ball is opened, and it settles on every surface in the room, including the peels, the oven floor, the cutting board and the wheel. We can tell you what we put on a pizza, and we will tell you honestly. We cannot tell you that anything leaving this kitchen is free of an allergen, and we will not say it. If a reaction would send you to hospital, this is not a safe kitchen for you, and we would far rather say so than take the order.
The kitchen is one room. Every pizza here is opened on the same bench, baked on the same floor and cut with the same wheel, and that is true of this one as much as any other. The pages on allergens and cross-contact and vegetarian, vegan and dietary questions set out plainly what we can and cannot tell you, including the things most shops leave you to assume.
The rest of the menu
Other things worth ordering
Heroes & Subs
Seeded rolls baked here each morning, filled to order — the Italian combination, chicken parm, meatball, or aubergine.
From $12
Baked Pasta
Baked ziti and lasagne from the same sauce as the pizzas, finished under the mozzarella in a small steel pan.
From $15
Salads
A chopped Italian salad with an oregano vinaigrette, and a caprese when the tomatoes are worth it — which is not all year, and we will say so.
From $12Asked at the counter
Wings — questions
Are they as crispy as fried wings?
Not quite, and we are not going to say otherwise. They are crisp, they are less greasy, and the skin is properly rendered. If you want a fried wing you want a different shop.
How hot is hot?
Genuinely hot — the cayenne sauce with very little butter in it. If you are unsure, the mild is well seasoned rather than bland.
Are they gluten-free?
There is no flour or breading in the sauces or on the wings. They are baked in an oven full of airborne flour, so we cannot call the finished food gluten-free — see the allergens page.
Twelve to fifteen minutes, and worth the wait
Order a pie
Telephone the shop and we will tell you honestly how long the kitchen is running before you commit to anything. Collection is always quicker than delivery and the pizza is always better for it. If you are ordering for a crowd, the catering page has the trays and the notice we need.