Built to travel better than a pizza does
Stromboli
A long rolled loaf of cured meats and provolone, sliced into pinwheels and genuinely good at room temperature.
A stromboli is rolled and a calzone is folded, and that difference does more than it sounds like it should. A roll gives you many thin layers of filling separated by thin layers of bread, which sets firm as it cools; a fold gives you one large pocket of molten filling, which does not. That is why a stromboli is genuinely good at room temperature and a cold calzone is a disappointment.
It is therefore the thing we recommend for anything that has to sit — a picnic, a long car journey, an office where people will drift over during an afternoon. It is not better than a pizza; it is better than a pizza three hours later, which is a different and sometimes more useful quality.
No ricotta in it, deliberately. Ricotta is the ingredient that makes a calzone what it is and it is also the ingredient that will not survive being cooled and sliced.
What goes on it
The meats
Cured salami, cooked ham and capicola, in overlapping layers.
The cheese
Provolone rather than mozzarella — it is sharper and it sets firmer when it cools.
The vegetables
Roasted red pepper, and nothing wet.
The crust
Egg-washed and sesame-seeded, scored along the top.
How it is made here
Layered flat
Meats and cheese laid in overlapping sheets across a rolled rectangle of dough, right to the edges.
Rolled tight
Tightly, from the long side, so the pinwheel has as many turns as possible.
Scored along the length
Four or five diagonal cuts so it can expand without splitting the seam.
Twenty-two minutes
At 500°F, then cooled at least ten minutes before slicing. Cut hot, it falls apart.
Stromboli — what it costs
- Whole, serves 3–4$26
- Half$14
Prices include every topping listed above. Extras are $3 for vegetables and $4 for meats. Prices change when our costs do; the menu here is the menu in the shop.
Before you order this
A shared flour kitchen, and what that rules out. Our kitchen handles wheat flour in open air all day, along with milk, eggs, soy, tree nuts and fish. Flour becomes airborne every time a dough ball is opened, and it settles on every surface in the room, including the peels, the oven floor, the cutting board and the wheel. We can tell you what we put on a pizza, and we will tell you honestly. We cannot tell you that anything leaving this kitchen is free of an allergen, and we will not say it. If a reaction would send you to hospital, this is not a safe kitchen for you, and we would far rather say so than take the order.
The kitchen is one room. Every pizza here is opened on the same bench, baked on the same floor and cut with the same wheel, and that is true of this one as much as any other. The pages on allergens and cross-contact and vegetarian, vegan and dietary questions set out plainly what we can and cannot tell you, including the things most shops leave you to assume.
The rest of the menu
Other things worth ordering
Spinach Roll
Spinach wilted with garlic and squeezed dry, rolled through pizza dough with mozzarella and baked until the spiral sets.
From $6.50
Chicken Roll
Grilled chicken thigh, mozzarella and a little roasted pepper rolled in dough and baked — the one that sells out first on a Friday.
From $7.50
Pepperoni Roll
Pepperoni and mozzarella coiled through dough with a sesame crust, so the fat renders into the bread as it bakes.
From $6.50Asked at the counter
Stromboli — questions
How many does it feed?
Three or four as a meal, or eight or nine as something to pick at. A half is $14 and feeds two.
Is it good the next day?
Yes, better than most things here. Room temperature or ten minutes in a 350°F oven. Do not microwave it.
Can I get a vegetarian one?
Yes — roasted vegetables and provolone, same price, made to order with about half an hour's notice.
Twelve to fifteen minutes, and worth the wait
Order a pie
Telephone the shop and we will tell you honestly how long the kitchen is running before you commit to anything. Collection is always quicker than delivery and the pizza is always better for it. If you are ordering for a crowd, the catering page has the trays and the notice we need.